Clemitt's the crag has been climbed on since the 70's but it was only last year that the boulders underneath the crag recieved the attention they so obviously deserved. I hadn't visited here until after the development had taken place and so I can't really envisage the amount of work that must have gone in to the cleaning of these blocks but kudos to those that put in the effort as this is a truly terrific find. The stand-out blocks for me are the pathside boulders which have a variety of slabs and overhangs and three star problems on every one. For the lower grade boulderer Sams Slab is the problem to aim for, it was, unfortunately, wet and muddy today.
As this was just a quick-hit we spent most of our time on the No Hands Slab block. I feel the grades here are currently a little dubious but regardless of their difficulty the steeper slab holds some very nice, balancy moves. There is a small amount of snappy and soft rock but this doesn't detract. Cloud Nine, which takes the left arete, has quality moves and is pleasing to the eye and to the right of this the Fingerprint Appreciation Society and its counterpart are good practice for those smaller, slopier holds. My next target here has to be Princess Leia. At the top of my grade it's a must do next visit.
A guide to Clemitts boulders (£1.50) is available here
A free guide to Clemitts the crag is available here