Saturday, 25 February 2012


     Scugdale is my spiritual home.  I've probably covered more metres here over the years than all my other climbing combined.  The rock is friendly, it's a non-serious size, has so many good routes and holds some of my fondest memories.  Didn't have very long today so after a quick romp up Zoot Route, Jivers Wall and Main Mast Crack we headed over to Cleft Buttress for a wee bit of bouldering.
     I spent about 3 years coming here quite regularly before I figured out how to do the start of New Dimensions (above).  Now I know how to do the move I can usually bop up to the good hold quite easily but fell off today just as I was getting there.  I only had the one go.
     A similar outcome with Finger Jam.  Some brilliant moves up the crack and a couple of quick dynamic moves off a big slopey pocket and I grabbed the good hold.  But when my feet came off I just couldn't hang on.  Should have put more effort in, or I'm too weak.  I'm getting used to failure!
photos:copyright dave_lozman

Link :  NEclimber's Scugdale Top 10

Free guides to Scugdale are available here

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