I've cheated a little bit here but the two sides have such different character I have to split them up. Plus, thinking of only ten was way too hard. So here it is, but bear in mind it is a work in progress and will probably change dependant on what I climb next time I'm there. I'm pretty fickle like that.
Scots Crag
Zoot Route
The guidebook says this is 'a little route with a big feel about it' which is an apt description. Although only a few metres high you start off on a ledge and wouldn't want to fall off although the holds are so good there's little chance of that. Big jugs up breaks in the right side of the groove are followed to a good bridging position to top out on this perfectly formed piece of rock.
Direct Start (Nook and Cranny)
Bold and brilliant, this was a scary solo the first time I embarked on it. The start is off a sharp boulder making the landing terrible but the holds are good and if you keep calm the easy climbing up the flake is followed by a top part which is simple if you keep thinking about your feet.
The Bulkhead
A little gem. A slightly overhanging crack leads to a strenuous top out which feels scary without a rope. Would make a good, if short, lead.
Hangover
More like a boulder problem, only the first few moves having any difficulty but they are brill and the slab is a joy.
Tippling Wall
Gently overhanging with good moves between positive holds and a few different ways of pulling over at the top. Copping out left is actually the harder of the options feeling precarious and slopey, best to just go for it and keep heading up. The grassy landing underneath gives a non too serious feel when you set off but feels irrelevant once you've gained some height. A bit of a milestone for me when I did this, might be more enjoyable with a few mats and spotters.
Zeta Wall
You've heard of elvis leg, well I had full body shakes at the top of this one even though the hard part is at the bottom, it's a good job its not too strenuous and I got up it eventually. Would make a jolly good, well protected lead.
Whippet Wall
Most people probably get on Pets Corner on this buttress but I always found the moves on this climb much steadier and more pleasant. If donning a rope however I would punt for it's neighbour The Arete at a similar grade.
Pluto
A steep little number, short but exciting. After this perhaps it's time to try it's next door neighbour Pluto Variant, just as good but a great deal harder.
Pingers
I do this most visits. A little bit technical, the moves feel just right.
Razor Rib
An easy romp but always interesting, the best of the bunch at this, the beginners end of the crag.
Barkers Crag
Overhanging Block
Okay, so this isn't a route but it's only a small bit of rock where you can work out a variety of problems over the little roof. A lovely spot for a warm-up.
Pedestal Crack
An awkward little climb that deserves to be longer.
Long Chimney
A great, easy, adventure.
Joshua's Nose
I think this is harder than the grade suggests but is interesting throughout and a stand-out line.
Mandela's Day
A crimpy little number that needs decent technique to make it look good. The ledge can be a little dirty sometimes but persevere, the finish is ok.
Finger Jam Start
A slopey overhanging crack and some great dynamic moves. Not to be missed.
New Dimensions Start
The full climb has been on my hit-list for a long time and will probably be for a long time into the future. The start, however, makes an excellent boulder problem, possibly the best short problem at Scugdale.
Cinderella
Just climbing joy. Do it as the sun goes down and enjoy!
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