Tuesday, 2 October 2012


     I've visited a few of the crags in Farndale over the years but there's been much fresh development since I last climbed in the valley.  Round Crag has seen a spate of new routes and problems and two new bouldering venues have been discovered South of Oak Crag, dubbed the Duck Boulders and The Inbetweeners.

Upper Farndale from the Inbetweeners
     We bypassed the Duck Boulders and headed straight to the Inbetweeners, a great walk along good tracks and with fantastic views down into Farndale.  I have to say I was slightly underwhelmed by the actual rocks.  We wandered past a few boulders and craglets that might give some sport but the main area has a tall slabby wall to the right of steeper, more technical ground.  I got stuck into a sit-start on the left boulder that utilised a pinch and undercuts (The Pinch?).  It's one of those moves that doesn't feel possible when your sat gripping the holds getting ready to pull on but just about works if you put in the effort.  
The Inbetweeners
      With some sit starts, eliminates and a few lines left to be climbed the rock was good and solid but nothing screamed 'climb me!'.  The top-outs are apparently very slopey but I didn't get high enough to experience them.  There's a nice secluded feel and it's relatively sheltered but my verdict (until I visit the Duck Boulders) : It's a nice spot for a walk!

Info on these venues will be in an upcoming guide being produced by Betaguides.
Other info on Farndales crags available from climbonline.

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